John Coppinger originally set up Mwaleshi Camp (GPS: MWALES) for Wilderness Trails in 1989, and then retained control of it when he set up his own operation: Remote Africa Safaris. Most people fly between North and South Luangwa National Park; and it's a very short hop from the Lukuzi Airstrip, near Tafika.

Mwaleshi is a delightfully simple bushcamp consisting of just four chalets made out of reeds and grasses, set on the southern bank of a scenic stretch of the Mwaleshi River. Each chalet has a bathroom en suite, under the stars, with a flush toilet and simple hot shower. There's a small, thatched dining and bar area, also overlooking the river. However you arrive, a minimum stay of about four nights at Mwaleshi is sensible.

As the North Park is so remote, in the past the camps here have had a permanent staff for each season – but not usually a permanent manager. The guiding here is done by one of the experienced team from Remote Africa Safaris – so it's a top-class operation and one of my favourite bushcamps in Africa. Walking really is the activity here (very convenient, given the amount you'll be tempted to eat of their excellent food), and the first time you get on a vehicle from camp may well be when you're leaving.